Titlebook: Water Wave Kinematics; A. Tørum,O. T. Gudmestad Book 1990 Kluwer Academic Publisher 1990 erosion.information.instruments.kinematics.measur

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Book 1990tlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been o

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Theory versus Measuremento the ultimate benefit of both sides. Some particular examples are mentioned. The final discussion concludes that there is no real competition between theory and measurement but that they are complementary.

Aboveboard

Deep Water Wave Kinematics Models for Deterministic and Stochastic Analysis of Drag Dominated Structsponse induced by these forces. Several wave kinematic models for deep water are considered and the practical use and consequences for design of drag dominated structures are examplified. Furthermore, recommendations for practical analysis are being made and needed for further research and development is outlined.

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Near Surface Irregular Wave Kinematics test program including measurements and analyses of near surface kinematics in irregular waves is presented. The model set-up provided continuous time series of wave kinematics which have been compared with predictions from 2nd order irregular wave theory.

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Wave Theory Predictions of Crest Kinematicsve and frequently confusing, which has often led to the adoption of linear wave theory, whether or not it is appropriate. In much of the practical parameter range, mathematical predictions for steady, progressive waves are available from a range of orders from Stokes, Cnoidal and Fourier theories. The differences are often considerable.

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