Titlebook: Waves on Water of Variable Depth; Proceedings of a Sym D. G. Provis,R. Radok Conference proceedings 1977 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg

machination

Indurate

Diffraction of gravity waves by ray methods,The existence of surface gravity waves of creeping wave type propagating along curved discontinuities and edges of the bottom profile is demonstrated. Decay exponents and diffraction coefficients for these waves are determined. Linearized shallow-water wave theory is applied.

indicate

吼叫

The dynamics of waves on currents over a weakly varying bed,The propagation of non-breaking waves on large-scale currents over a gently sloping sea bed is considered. Effects of vorticity and dissipation are included. The three-dimensional case is studied only for irrotational flow.

小步舞

The dynamics of waves on currents over a weakly varying bed,The propagation of non-breaking waves on large-scale currents over a gently sloping sea bed is considered. Effects of vorticity and dissipation are included. The three-dimensional case is studied only for irrotational flow.

要塞

Local behaviour of tsunamis,n.Although a weak bore (or an undular bore) may be formed close to shore if the head wave of a tsunami is a positive wave, there may be no bore formation at all if the negative wave forms the front.The maximum run-up of a tsunami is caused mostly by the non-breaking wave enhanced by the effect of bay resonance.

Hyperopia

杀子女者

Surf and run-up,ith analytical results. Calculations for a single bore show the run-up, run-down, formation of a “backwash” bore and reflected waves propagating away from the shoreline. A preliminary calculation with periodic bores is shown.

attenuate

Surf and run-up,ith analytical results. Calculations for a single bore show the run-up, run-down, formation of a “backwash” bore and reflected waves propagating away from the shoreline. A preliminary calculation with periodic bores is shown.

即席